Not only Bread

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Close-up of a wheat ear atop a slice of whole grain bread on a wooden surface.

I was born in Hamilton, Canada. My parents decided to return to Italy when I was barely a year old. Growing up in the village of Vittorito, in the region of Abruzzo, instilled in me a farming tradition and a close-knit sense of community. A particular activity became indelibly impressed in my being: that of bread making.

The Apennines surrounding the village seemed to support the azure celestial dome. In this ‘divine’ architecture, on many early mornings, women would walk along the narrow streets each carrying a wooden plank on their heads balanced on a rolled-up cloth in the shape of a donut. With straight backs and sure gait, they made their way to the legendary ‘Forno di Rocchetta’. The forno (oven) for baking the bread was fueled by wood from the nearby mountain. A small arched opening revealed a brick dome large enough for a dozen loaves. The baker would quickly slide a thin wood shovel under each loaf of dough and nimbly place it in the oven. Almost immediately the delicious aroma emitting from the exhaust pipe filled the air rewarding the women and nature for the precious contributions to one another. Bramante, the Renaissance architect, while designing the Tempietto with its perfect dome wrote: “The earth awaits my tears, because they are the only ones that light up the sky with poetry, while the oven bakes the bread that will perfume life and open umbrellas of smiles.”

Sliced homemade bread on a wooden cutting board with a knife, fresh and ready to eat.

Making bread was a way of socialization, a pooling of resources, a sharing of know-how. Often the making of the dough belonged to two or more families, whose mothers and grandmothers worked together during the night in its preparation. It was a time to share stories and hopes, passions and memories. These stories have remained in my memory like scenes from an old film ‘noir’. Upon returning to Canada, two years ago, I submerged myself in gaining a mastery of the English language and Canadian ways. In the process I began to bring together elements of my two cultures hopefully within a colourful milieu.

Canada is approximately ten million square kilometers, with 65% of its land uncultivated. Almost 30% of the land is covered by forests and about 10% is used for agriculture and grassland. Food production is a key undertaking as it is in Italy. Although Canada is 33 times the side of Italy, both countries share a number of similar geographical characteristics. I dare say that Italy may be considered a Miniature Canada. (This will be the theme for a future story…)

One of my challenges was to put bread on the table, the bread of tradition, with its fresh aroma wafting through the house with its hints of wheat, its golden colour and slightly wrinkled surface. Its crunchy crust sonorous to the bite and the taste combining the vaguely sweet sensation of the flour with the slightly acidic perception of the natural yeast. Thus, I began a journey of searching for the fundamental elements: yeast and flour. It was a time of trialand error. After five months I found the right alchemy. I created the sourdough, following a 14-day preparation process, and since July 2019 I have continued to lovingly nurture the bacteria and fermentation of the sourdough.

As I in did Italy, I ventured in the rural areas of southern Ontario seeking agricultural products for their freshness and authenticity. I came across a small mill in the town of Arva, near London, Ontario. The mill was founded in 1819 by the Scott family, an example of a Family Business that has been passed down for four generations. I fell in love with its history and its production concept and began buying its flour online.

The Arva Flour Mill continues to process wheat according to tradition. The power to the millstones is provided half by water and the rest by electricity. The natural wheat comes from small neighbouring farms and the resulting flours are without preservatives or additives. I visited the mill last fall. It is a red building surrounded by greenery and the sound of water that turns the millstones. A small shop is attached to the mill. Here one will find organic, natural, and local products. Nearby, in a separate simple structure, is the Mill House Bakery, that makes artisan baked products using the flour from the mill. It is worth a visit and should you decide to venture into bread-making, you know where to buy the flour.

Red and gray building with a porch under a clear blue sky, surrounded by greenery and power lines.

Hippocrates, the father of medicine,knew the importance of nutrition in relation to our health and our psycho-physical well-being; we are what we eat. It is no coincidence that in small mountain villages in various parts of Italy, where it is possible to buy directly from the farmer, people live to a venerable age. My great-grandmother Natalizia lived to be one hundred years plus seven days in excellent health. She used to tell me that, in the fields near Vittorito, an old hard wheat was cultivated and due to its dark-coloured beard was called ‘baffone’. This unique wheat as it got milled into flour in the village mill, emitted a volatile aroma resulting in a yearning for fresh baked bread. A slice of that bread, toasted, rubbed with fresh garlic and a few drops of local olive oil accompanied by fresh peas or ‘fava’ beans was a meal much sought after and nutritious. This simple fare would be shared with family and friends as a sign of communal respect.

When I share a meal with friends and family, I am not only sharing bread, but also friendship and affection. I am sharing the journey of my research, the story of the Red Mill in Arva, the life stories of the women I grew up with, my Italian and Canadian roots, the wisdom of my great-grandmother and the beauty of the golden wheat.

Not only bread…

Stay mindful, sustainable, and open-minded

Smiling woman in red dress sitting on a white sofa, leaning on her hand.

Nancy Perin

Nancy is a caring individual with a background in sociology and a strong desire to connect people. She has improved workplaces and communities with her almost two decades of experience in management teams, human resources, coaching, and community project management. Nancy has also served on the board of directors of the Italian Personnel Managers Association and participated in a humanitarian mission to Dakar, Senegal, to support family centres.

Her intercultural love story sparked her interest in migration-relatedtopics and led her to launch @journeysta, a project that aims to strengthen cultural ties between Canada and Italy.

Nancy oversees the Gallery of Human Migration and believes in the possibility of creating caring communities that are involved in the processes of welcoming, acceptance, and integration. Join her on this journey of discovery and cultural exchange.

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Woman smiling in a garden, sitting on a rock beside white flowers, enjoying the sunny day.